Ballindalloch Castle
- Emma Wilkinson
- Jul 28, 2024
- 3 min read
Updated: Oct 30, 2024
Located in the stunning whisky country of Speyside, Ballindalloch Castle truly is the romantic pearl of the North.
Home to the MacPherson-Grants, this beautiful castle feels straight out of a fairy tale. It's towering walls and carved turrets somehow still feel welcoming and so they should as this castle remains a family home to this day.
The castle is believed to originate from the 16th century - the date 1546 is carved into one of the mantel pieces and above the entrance way. To put this into context, Mary, Queen of Scots is only 4 years old and over the border, Henry VIII is on to his sixth and final wife, Catherine Parr. Ballindalloch has all of the defensive attributes of a typical Z-Plan Scottish tower house sitting harmoniously alongside all of the grand comforts of the 18th and 19th century architectural additions. This castle is frosted in intricate carvings, your eye finds another detail each time you look.
It took a number of attempts to erect this castle! It is believed the original plans were to build to castle of a better defensive sight up a nearby hill. Each time the castle walls started to go up, something would bring them down. Until a whisper on the wind advised the family to "build in the cow haughs, and you will meet with no interruptions". And so there did and it is here the castle stands to this day by the rivers Avon and Spey,
Originally built by Grants, it wasn't until 1838 when George MacPherson-Grant was created 1st Baronet of Ballindalloch that the two great clans of Speyside symbollically merged into one.
Inside the castle you find room and after room of inviting decoration - there is something homely about this place, unlike many of the other cavernous castles I have visited. Each room still contains family portraits and photographs, mementos and the odd ghost story.
As a fan of Allan Ramsay portraits, I was delighted to see two of his iconic portraits hanging in the dining room - King George III and Queen Charlotte, gifted to General James Grant in recognition of his military service in the American Wars of Independence. It has been recorded that around only 150 copies of these portraits were made by Ramsay and his assistants. The castle is also home to the most prominent collection of 17th century Spanish art in Scotland, featuring portraits of Spanish royalty.
My favourite room in the castle was the library. Located up a small narrow spiral staircase tucked away at the back of the smoking room. Every wall is covered floor to ceiling in English, French and Spanish volumes - a collection that has remained largely intact showcasing family interests spanning generations. There is a desk at the window overlooking the coo-haugh where the oldest herd of Aberdeen Angus cows graze to this day.
Something else stood out here...some of the bedrooms had ensuites! A feature typically missing from the rooms we get to visit as part of castle tours! I think this simple detail was part of what makes Ballindalloch feel so welcoming.
A further small detail which stood out to me, was a piece of tartan in the servants turret bedroom. It was dating at around 150 years old, although I feel from the shades of dye it may be a little older than this now. It appeared a simplified take on perhaps the Grant sett, hand woven and I'm guessing naturally dyed (comparing the red and blue shades to those I have seen in recent 1800s tartan samples). It was skilfully woven, with a very large sett size and impeccable selvedge - what I would recognise as a traditional kilting selvedge.
The castle gardens were peacefully and in full bloom. Meandering paths around the walled gardens with little water features and the buzz of insects enjoying the late July sunshine.
I will hurry back to Ballindalloch and plan to explore the many woodland and river walks on the estate. I thoroughly recommend a visit to the pearl of the north if you are ever in Speyside.
A note on Clan MacPherson ~
Above the door at Ballindalloch, the MacPherson Coat of Arms has been carved into the stone
along with the clan's motto:
"Touch not the Cat bot a Glove"
An unusual turn of phrase, and perhaps the most memorable of all the mottos.
It is a warning not to meddle with a MacPherson without protection.
Learn more or plan your own visit to Ballindalloch Castle here
